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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.